The terminal block and connector block kits provide very reliable connections for use in any type of electronics bay. The connectors simply won't wear out like other connectors that use a socket and pin type of connection. They are also easily repaired if damaged. All the blocks have electrical posts rather than tapped holes. On the terminal block, you can place a ring terminal on a post and it will stay put. The connector blocks are keyed, so you can't put the mating connector on backwards. I wanted a field usable connector and wiring terminals that made things easier to deal with.
Of note, if your sled is non-metal and non-conductive, any of the blocks can use longer machine screws that can be inserted from the bottom of the sled. This not only supplies a mount for the block, but you can use the bottom screws as additional connections. In this case, the block becomes a electrical feedthru also.
The following sections detail the assembly of the SMT Designs connectors and terminal block. The first section will cover the connector blocks and the second section will cover the terminal block.
The connectors use #6 18-22 AWG solder terminals and the terminal block uses #6 18-22 AWG crimp terminals. Note: these terminals require different preparation methods.
What you need for this
Step 1 - insert the four prepared terminals into the connector as shown
Step 2 - Turn the solder terminals upside down and push them into the slots in the connector (do not pull on the wires). Use a small pair of needle nose pliers and slide the terminals into the connector housing as shown.
Step 3 - Organize the wire flow direction that you need in your electronics bay with the included tie wraps.
Step 1 - insert the four prepared terminals into the connector
Step 2 - Push the solder terminals into the slots in the connector as shown using a small pair of needle nose pliers (do not pull on the wires)
Step 3 - Install and tighten the four 6-32 machine screws through the terminal rings. You can dress your wires as needed at this point or do that later when installing the connector.
Step 4 - Install an internal lock washer, a flat washer, and finally a K-Lock nut on each post to keep them where you need them. When using the connector, you remove the flat washer and nut, install the mating connector, the flat washer and tighten the nut to keep the connector together in flight.
Step 5 (optional) - if you are installing the tab mount connector on a metal sled, it is recommended as best practise to "fill" the screw wells on the bottom of the connector with epoxy to create an insulated barrier. The screw heads are far enough in to create an air gap, but I always tend toward making sure a hidden problem can not manifest itself. All it would take is a small amount of metal contamination from a drill bit or shop debris to potentially create a future problem.
Step 1 - insert the four prepared terminals into the connector
Step 2 - Push the solder terminals into the slots in the connector as shown using a small pair of needle nose pliers (do not pull on the wires)
Step 3 - Install and tighten two of the shorter 6-32 machine screws through the middle terminal rings and two longer screws in the outside rings (no need to tighten these as they are used for mounting later). Of note, you could use two, three or four screws through your bay sled if you wanted access to electrical connections below the connector (useful if they are power connections or you are installing altimeters on both sides of the sled). If you need extra hardware for this type of use, contact SMT Designs and we can supply that to you as part of your order.
Step 4 - Install an internal lock washer, a flat washer, and finally a K-Lock nut on each post to keep them where you need them. When using the connector, you remove the flat washer and nut, install the mating connector, the flat washer and tighten the nut to keep the connector together in flight. You can dress your wires as needed at this point or do that later when installing the connector.
Step 1 - Layout parts for assembly
Step 2 - Install four 7/8" 6-32 machine screws in bottom of block and tighten
Step 3 - From the top, install one flat washer, one internal lock washer, one flat washer, and one 6-32 K-Lock nut on each post.